Mitsubishi EVO Tuning Guide
EVO Tuning Guide
This EVO tuning guide covers the top ten things that should be done when tuning your EVO. All these things assume your EVO has been regularly serviced and is in good running order.
see also:
EVO Tuning Specs vs Power
EVO 9 Performance Part Power Test
EVO Buying Guide
EVO FQ300 Review
EVO Tuning Specialists
EVO 7 RS Sprint Review
EVO Information and Specs up to EVO 9
EVO Tuning Guide
Making sure everything is pointing in the right direction and it at the right angle can be one of the most rewarding and cost effective checks/modifications that can be done to any car let alone a high performance car like the EVO. Suspension alignment is especially true if your car is running coil over and especially with adjustable top mounts. Coilover suspension also brings into play corner weighting which is another thing that can really help the balance of the EVO.
Older EVOs and EVOs which have been driven hard can feel a bit lively at the rear. To tighten things up again a set of polyurethane bushes can be used as the original bushes can get soft over time. Generally polyurethane suspension bushes can be used throughout the car and the result will be more response, a very small reduction in ride comfort and possibly a little bit more noise. The extra control these bushes will give your EVO more than makes up for any negatives.
3. Clutch
Standard clutches can be a weak point in the transmission. A full bore standing start has the potential to destroy a clutch. If you are thinking of due standing start launches regularly get yourself a clutch that is rated well above the power output of your engine. Clutches are rated to what torque they can hold when they are already engaged. Dropping the clutch onto a launch controlled 300bhp motor will require more than a 300bhp clutch, especially if you want the clutch to have a long life.
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EVO Tuning Guide
if your buying a 3inch exhaust system, make sure it is 3inches from start to finish. An exhaust will only flow as much as the smallest diameter will allow. So its no good have a 2.5inch exit from your cat and a 3inch diameter exhaust. Make sure the system you are buying maintains the same diameter throughout its length.
Standard replacement front damper are around 200GBP to replace and they are not very durable and they are not adjustable. The EVO is extremely well catered for in the performance aftermarket and the coilover department is no different. TEIN, GAZ, SPAX, Ohlins all have offerings for the EVO which will give you massive adjustability on setup.
6. BOVs
They sound cool but they will not help your EVO to run smoothly. EVOs have a tendency to run rich at idle and on part throttle with BOVs. As the boost increase the standard recirculating valve can struggle to stay closed. At this point it’s time to go for an uprated recirculating valve which can be tuned/adjusted.
7. LSD/Diffs
EVO 4, 5 and 6 diffs on the GSR are known to be weak. The diff from an RS is much stronger. From the EVO 7 onwards the rear diff uses the same crown wheel and pinion as the RS diff so these diff are also suitable. They have an alloy casing instead of the cast iron used for the RS diff but they will still be an improvement. These later diff can be told apart from the earlier diff by the fact that they have 2 sets of 4-bolt patterns to align with the propshaft whereas the early diffs have just one set of holes
8. MAF to MAP
The standard MAF is good up to around 400bhp. The MAF has many advantages over MAP but to get accurate airflow readings for 400+bhp you need a MAP sensor. The swap to a MAP sensor will require some adjustments so the standard ECU can work with it but this is nothing an experienced EVO tuner cant deal with
9. Fuel Pump
On older cars there is a good chance that he fuel pump is getting tired. Tired pumps can lead to low fuel pressure and lean mixture conditions leading to heavy exercise for your wallet and a trip to your engine builder. If your tuning your EVO get the foundations sorted and fit an uprated fuel pump. It will be one less thing to worry about.
10. Wastegate Actuator
Before the EVO7 the actuator was vulnerable to water ingress that would slowly corrode the internals of the actuator. The simplest fix is an actuator off an EVO 7 or 8 as these have a top hat to protect from actuator from water.
11. Rolling Road Tuning
After the dyno session take the car up the road with the guy who did the programming just to check everything is spot on. There can be big differences between the rolling road and the real world with regards to the temperatures and the amount of air hitting the front of the car. A test drive will help indentify any issues.
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Hi there I have a 2001 Evolution 7(JAP) and I been having some serious clutch porblem my car is fairly stock few mods pistons connecting rods head studs head gasket headers with pipe are the mods but I have not upgraded my stock clutch slave don’t know if that I have to but my real issue is my Evo are destroying every clutch setup am putting in it as if it’s staying engaged don’t know how I don’t lunch don’t race on any tracks do few street races but not burn outs or donuts or anything harsh and I have destroyed four complete clutch setup less then one year the clutch setup that i had are 1) Exedy Twin 2)Act 6 puck Xt 3) Competition twin 4) Competition twin replacement disc and and there are now gone to can you pls pls HELP ME!!! ????????
Hi, we not a mechanic so this is just our opinion.
If the clutch is dragging/staying engaged, the car will roll forward with the car out of gear and the clutch engaged.
If its slipping under power the revs will rise faster than the speed. ie if the clutch is not engaging fully or if the clutch is weak.
If neither of these two things are happening I do not know what would cause your clutch problem.
I would suggest speaking to a specialist.
I hope that helps
Your first and biggest mistake was getting an evo vii my friend